The Shrimpton Couture Archives

The twin of this dress was Look 41 on the Fall 2006 runway and it was also used for the ad campaign that year and was worn by Kate Moss. It has become one of his most iconic dresses. John Galliano began his own label in 1984 and he was instantly a bit of a 'boy wonder' in fashion. He was British Fashion Council Designer of the Year in 1987, 1994 and 1995. In 1991 he made his Paris catwalk debut. In 1995 he was asked to head Givenchy and then went to Dior in October of 1996. Unlike many designers he kept his own label going as well throughout the years at both those houses. His work, especially the bias cut pieces that he did, have a feeling of the decadence and abandonment of the twenties and they are beautifully cut. They marry Old Hollywood with the minimalist spirit of the nineties and early 2000s and the results are stunning. This is an amazing example of his work from Dior and it is gorgeous. 

The dress definitely takes inspiration from the bias cut couture pieces of the 20s and 30s. The seam work and simplicity of this dress is stunning to see and it is even better on an actual body. It is made from a beautiful silk velvet in a deep rich red. A design that include the Christian Dior name has been pressed into the velvet over the entire dress. This gives it this incredible added texture that you see in the photos. It has that that same light in weight feel that the best of the 1930s pieces did that were made from similar velvets and chiffons. Like those dresses of the thirties this is also cut on the bias. It is cut to flow over the body and skims its way over the bust, waist and hips as it falls to the floor. The neckline drapes down and there is a panel of silk chiffon tucked just inside the neckline at both the back and the front. This creates a bit of a swooping plunge that is slightly set to the side. Thin bands of a red grosgrain ribbon run up the size of the dress and around the waist, and he's gathered the velvet into that ribbon in various spots to create the asymmetrical draping feel that you see. The skirt flows down to the floor, skimming over the hips, and then flaring out as it reaches the hem. This gives you a ton of movement around the lower skirt when you walk or move. It also adds to the hourglass shape the dress has. It is all done so that it sits in the most decadent feeling way on your body. The dress is spectacular. Excellent condition.

The bodice is lined in a red silk chiffon, and the skirt is unlined. It closes with a hidden set zipper down one side. Tagged a Galliano FR42, GB14, US8. The bias cut fabric does have some stretch. The measurements below give you the comfortable range the fabric has when lying flat. It is in its original length. The bias cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes

Bust: 16-19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 16.5" from neck to dropped seam
Total length: 62" from neck to front hem, 66" to the back hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Reference Photos: (1-2) Fall 2006 Christian Dior, Look 41. Model Caroline Trentini.  /  (3) Kate Moss for the Fall 2006 Dior Ad Campaign by Nick Knight.  /  (4) Olivia Cooke at the 'House Of The Dragon' London Premiere, 2022.

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